October is such a fun time of year. It's when courses on the Mountaineers website start to post. Aspiring mountaineers start taking their first steps to climbing the mountains without a tour guide.
Disclaimer - while I am a member of the Mountaineers my words are my own and reflect my own thoughts and not those of the Mountaineers organization. Also, Everett Branch is the best branch.
Also disclaimer - Please don't do anything in the wilderness without training. The mountains aren't very forgiving and need a lot of respect.
People from all kinds of different backgrounds are starting to make their way to the classes offered across the region by the well known organization. And many are there because no matter where you are in this area there is this big beast you have to look at all the time:
This 14,411ft beast is higher than the clouds! And yes, I did want to show this photo off.
I don't blame people for wanting to go to the tippy top of the biggest mountain in the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest. It makes for some much more interesting water cooler talk than people are use to.
I have climbed about 25 mountains. Probably 30 by the time I finally publish this blog. And I have not climbed Mount Rainier. I am just now finally talking about an accent in May of 2018. So what have I been doing all this time? Where have I been going?
I've been scrambling!
Watch me attack this broken piece of cornice with my ice axe! Also, this is not typically part of scrambling.
No, scrambling isn't brunch. That's a future blog.
What is scrambling you ask? Scrambling is a very grey area between walking and climbing. I define it as off-trail exploration that requires 3 points of contact. Normally that opens up way more questions from my colleagues than I have time for so I just tell them it's mountain climbing. Mountains come in all shapes and sizes and there are some mountains that can be climbed with minimal equipment. Anyone who says it's not mountain climbing if you aren't hanging on a rope hasn't climbed enough. There can still be a lot of technical skill involved.
Please don't call this, "hiking."
If the most difficult thing you have done outdoors is backpack on a trail and you are thinking about learning to climb mountains I am here to convince you to scramble. You don't have to give up or put off Alpine Climbing - but it might be a great way to get your foot in the mountains.
I wasn't planning on learning to scramble at first. But I quickly learned it is a very important component of alpine climbing. In winter of 2015 when the Darling Human and I decided we really wanted to take Basic Alpine Climbing courses we were days late. But we saw room in the scrambling course and decided that would be a fun way to kill time before the climbing course was offered again. We went to the first class and watched a slideshow of what we would be doing as part of the course. It showed people going through boulder fields and hanging out on peaks. We both loved hiking both had experience with sport climbing. It looked fun. How difficult could this really be?
Excuse me, good sir. You expect me to climb down that 50ft exposed cliff? Are you out of your mind?
In the late spring of 2016 I graduated from Alpine Scrambling. My first real scramble was on a peak called Breccia. It required that I down climb a reasonably steep 10 foot cliff. And then traverse a very steep snow field with an ice ax. And that was when I learned I do not particularity like exposure when not on a rope. I also cried.
One of the few photos I was able to take while freaking out on Breccia. Later that evening I would be back at the car with my feet hurting more than they ever have looking up scrambles posted for the following weekend. Because I am crazy.
I did about 12 more scrambles while waiting to sign up for the Basic Alpine Course (BAC). In that time I got more comfortable with exposed places. I also learned how to navigate like a rock star. During the BAC course I would go on 5 more scrambles on weekends I didn't have a field-trip.
I am having a good time.
All of the scrambling paid off when it was time to start the real Alpine Climbing. In the BAC course you spend a lot of time working with rope. However even my first alpine rock climb on Lundin I spent just as much time off rope. Even with 5 some pitches I often found myself working in an exposed (aka scary) area. If Lundin was my Breccia everyone would of had a bad time. Because I would have cried a lot.
A little crazy. But thanks to training mostly lots of awesome.
My first glacier climb went a little differently. My lack of confidence bit me in the butt. It was the large and steep snowfield just before our camp. I was able to climb up it without issue. But it is always easier to work against gravity than to work with it.
This looks like it might be crazy.
Yeah, this is crazy.
So crazy.
On the way down my issues with exposure would surface. Our leader had to patiently help me with my footing. My way of working towards getting over this would be to scramble some more.
Got over some issues by replacing them with others.
Most of the people I have climbed with love scrambling. It is a great way to work the most important skills - navigation, exposure, and CONDITIONING. Most could be done in a day. And it is easier to include more people while those basic rock climbs with 4 spots for participants had a 20+ waiting list.
Also, I got 2 words for you:
GLISSADING.
But there are a few people I have seen poo-poo scrambling. Not even in a "to each their own" way. But in a "it's not hardcore" way. I have a response for those people. Shut up, you pansies.
There are more reasons to climb a mountain than trying to one-up Kenton Cool. Because no one is going to one-up Kenton Cool if you are poo-pooing 90% of the Cascades!
Interesting facts about the day this photo was taken: It was a 17 hour day, we started at 6am, we got out at 11pm, it rained the entire time (mostly ice), most of the way the snow was knee deep and we had to take turns making the trail ourselves, white out conditions meant having to figure out direction without a trail to follow and no peaks to reference, avalanches x3, we had to choose between sketch log or wading through ice water (and this was winter), one guy fell off sketch log and into the river anyway (he was fine). Way more hardcore than just holding onto a rope on a nice day. AND WE NEVER COMPLAINED CAUSE IT WAS AWESOME. HOW IS THAT FOR HARDCORE?
So back to the aspiring Mountaineering Basic Alpine Climbing (BAC) Students. Do you need to take scrambling before BAC? Nah. It isn't a need. Not even a requirement for the course. And you can scramble after graduating BAC alone.
But should you? I would consider it.
Consider this: The BAC has a limited number of spots and almost always the class accepts less people than applied. It is a $650 class plus membership ($75 per year). And if you have never climbed before you probably don't have any gear so be prepared to buy below along with the class fee:
- Boots: $600
- Ice Axe: $80
- Harness: $60
- 6 non-locking carabiners: $4 x 6 = $24
- 4 locking carabiners (don't you dare go cheap on these): $15 x 4 = $60
- 1 belay size locking carabiner (DO. NOT. GO. CHEAP.): $12
- Personal safety anchor: $35
- Climbing helmet: $60
- Cords/loops/runners/prusiks: MIN $100
- TOTAL UPFRONT without clothes, backpack, and other standard camping gear: $1,681
I haven't even included hardshells, rainpants, glacier sunglasses, backpacks, winter camping gear, and other things that are needed just to be comfortable while climbing. Terrifying costs, right?
We went into BAC with $800 of that already covered. We already had the fancy backpacks and camping gear -although we would upgrade a few things during the course thanks to good opportunites and sales. Our big beginning of class purchase from REI was hardly $200 each. And it would've have been less if I got the correct rope the second time. We had time to invest in great clothes and fancy gear while we were scrambling that year testing our equipment out. We were never uncomfortable with what we already had when the class started.
The first field-trip was a conditioner up Mount Si in 2 hours with 30-40 pound packs in the icy rain with 20+ MPH winds that will make Chuck Norris cry. We were hardly sweating, dry, and our bags were comfortable. And with all the scrambling this was mostly just a nice hike for us. We laughed about how it was nice that hauling 30-40 pounds in crappy weather was all we had to do.
Also, the investment in time. In the first 4 months of the class you have:
- 12 midweek lectures
- 6 field trips
- 3 field trips are 2-day 1-night camping IN SNOW.
- 2 exams
- A potluck
- if you plan on going through all of the above and then skip out on the potluck at this point I don't mean to talk like a gatekeeper but.....
- Oh, important: None of those lectures or field trips are flexible. Miss one and you must repeat the course.
- OH -VERY IMPORTANT: And there are two additional classes, wilderness 1st aid and navigation, lecture and field-trip each, that you also need to complete before following October graduation.
- OH! YOU ALSO HAVE ONE FULL DAY OF STEWARDSHIP YOU MUST COMPLETE.
AND THEN you have 5 months to do at least 3 SUCCESSFUL climbs. And the glacier climb needs to happen FAST. Then you get the fancy badges that let you climb.
And I am assuming you are in shape and prepared for the first field trip where you carry the 30-40 pound bag (depends on height and gender) up Mount Si in 2 hours in early February. You need to be in the parking lot at 5am, btw. I encourage you to try it this next weekend rain or shine to see if you are near ready. I'm a hiking trip leader - I can set it up for anyone interested.
Sadly, only half the class will graduate. Doesn't matter if it is with the 120 student Seattle Course, the 50 student Everett Course, Tacoma, Kitsap, Bellingham, or Olympia (who did I forget?). Half will give up. But not before dropping that $1,681. Most people who go into a course ready to drop $1,681 plan on graduating at that moment. What can you do to improve your chances?
Darling Human is doing in $600 boots what manic dog can do with her natural crampons for free.
The scrambling class. $350 to enroll.
- Boots: $600
- Ice Axe: $80
- Climbing helmet: $60
That is $1,090 upfront. Not including good clothing and backpack. Which if you are into hiking or backpacking you might already have what you need for the class and most scrambles. Although I would recommend some good ice ax gloves.
Time commitment includes a handful of field-trips and an overnighter in a cabin if you go with the most awesome branch ever, Everett. Everything is mandatory, you can't miss anything without having to repeat. Then stewardship, navigation, 1st aid, and the standard 3 scrambles before October to graduate. Most people can do more.
There is still a lot of money and time involved but less than BAC. If you can get through scrambling it is safe to say you won't have trouble with BAC. It is the easiest way to test your commitment while setting yourself up for success after taking it up the knotch that is BAC.
Speaking from experience: You need time to recover from buying those boots.
Rainier is pretty, but how 'bout that view?
I grew more as a person in the time I went from hiking to scrambling then the time I went from scrambling to alpine climbing. It was a very focused way for me to learn what I am capable of and what I need to work on. My goal for the next year is to start leading my own scrambles. I also now believe I have what it takes to join Intermediate Alpine Climbing. PLEASE FORWARD TO THE COMMITTEE REVIEWING MY APPLICATION THANK YOU.
I have also made peace with bleeding money for the rest of my life. I'm finally over the boots.
Also, I need a new pair of boots.
We were the only ones out there.
Unless it is a guidebook there aren't many books written about scrambling Hibox or Lichtenberg Mountain. But that doesn't mean there isn't adventure to be found on them. Or just a really good time your colleagues will love hearing about at the water cooler. Or a great way to burn off that beer you are going to have later that night. Or a way to avoid doing chores. Or a way to scare your mother.
Below is a link to the Mountaineers Course Schedule. There is more offered than scrambling and climbing. There is also hiking, backpacking, sea kayaking, a little of everything. I encourage everyone to check it out! See you in the mountains!